Adventure update

Rafting

A little fixer upper we found

The ship

On the 23rd we arrived in Jamaica – I wish we could have stayed longer just to listen to the people talk.  The distinctive phrases make me smile.  I should have carried a notebook with me and written things down instead of sight seeing.

Our first stop was Port Antonio where Errol Flynn retired.  The big attraction here is rafting down the Rio Grande river on bamboo rafts. The rafts were originally used to bring bananas down the river to the banana boats.  Errol Flynn saw the rafts and decided they looked like fun.  Today you haven’t visited Port Antonio if you haven’t rafted.  The route is 8 miles, takes about 2 to 2 ½ hours.  Surprisingly, the men who pole the boat down river are older – in their 60’s and 70’s.  It looks to me like a job for a younger person, but the story is the jobs are highly coveted and require much training before you are allowed to head downriver with a tourist.

The town isn’t much to write home about.  This is the rainy side of Jamaica, so the streets stay a bit muddy and depressions in the sidewalk fill with water.  We visited the market, as we try to do in most towns.  The stalls closest to the street were selling fruits and vegetables.  Further back you could buy shoes.  If you were curious enough to wander the maze all the way to the back, there were the crafts, tee shirts and other assorted items for tourists.  The vendors invited us to stop and look, but we didn’t find much to buy.  There are only so many key chains, bead necklaces, and magnets that any one person needs.

The next day we went on to the Black River area.  Here, due to shallow water, we came ashore using the zodiacs.  Our morning trip to shore was easy, not much swell or wind, so we arrived nice and dry.  We then toured the area in mini-buses.  Our guide was from the UK, but immigrated to Jamaica nine years ago.  While we probably learned more from him, I did miss the real Jamaican description of what we were seeing.  Our tour covered architecture, plants, birds, ecological issues and finally a Jamaican lunch of spicy vegetables, chicken, pork, fish and rice and beans.  By the time we headed back to the ship, the sea had developed a substantial chop.  Thank goodness for warm water and 80 degree temperatures.  It isn’t nearly so bad to get soaked  when everything is warm.

The 25^th was a day at sea.  Even though the ship is small, we always find plenty to do.  Watching for dolphins, reading, tasting martinis, and of course eating.  The food is very good, from the sausage and eggs for breakfast, to fruit and salad for lunch.  Dinner is always a treat – last night frog legs for starter, then a Nicoise salad and tuna or lamb for the entrée.  Add two interesting couples for conversation and dinner can take hours.  Last night our dinner companions were a couple from Denmark and a couple from Carson City, NV.  Everyone has humorous or thought provoking stories to tell, so we were entertained for the evening.

Let the wandering begin

Wanderlust has stuck again at the Buescher household.  September 19 saw us up early for a flight to New York.  We overnighted near JFK before heading on the Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic.  I thought I was pretty clever booking us into the Ramada near JFK, no long cab ride to get to our hotel or back to the airport.  Unfortunately the Ramada has seen better days.  While the room was clean enough, the hallways were dirty and dingy. As no one was eating in the restaurant, we opted for the bar.  The wine was awful, even for my indiscriminate palate.  Then I was saved from finishing the glass when a fly fell into it.  I will admit we have stayed in worse hotels, the guest house in Northern Lao, and the airport hotel in China with the bathroom done in early mildew, but this was the worst in a long time.  Fortunately for other travelers, the hotel will be shutting down soon for a complete redo.

Sunday morning we were up early for the next stage of our adventure – on to Santo Domingo.  We arrived about noon, picked up the luggage (all pieces arrived safely J) and caught a cab for the hour drive to the city of La Romano and our hotel – Casa De Campo.  The Casa is a large resort, ala Salishan or Sun River, with hotel rooms, condos, and private homes.  Each room includes the use of a golf cart, so we took advantage and drove around for a bit on Sunday afternoon.  There were many huge, grand homes with large elegant yards.  With the blooming tropical flowers, palm trees, green lawns, all beautifully tended, it was quite a tour.  Someday I will have to figure who buys a luxury get away in the Dominican Republic.  It began raining while we were out exploring, even at 80 degrees; it is chilly when you are soaked to the bone.  While the golf cart had a roof, there were no side windows or windshield and you can’t go very fast.  We looked like a couple of drowned rats by the time we arrived back at our room.  For those just visiting, if you sign up for the full plan there is all you can eat and drink, golf,  swimming, excursions, even skeet shooting.  As we were there less than 24 hours, we opted for pay as you go.  I am not sure that a $33 breakfast is any better than a $10 one, but it did keep me going until dinner time.  Usually our visit to a country keeps us with the general population, however this trip we were truly the ugly tourist, whisked from airport to resort to ship.  Hopefully we will have time to wander a bit among the locals at future stops.

Monday, after our expensive late breakfast, we joined a dozen other folks and headed for our ship, the Prince Albert II.  The ship is 354 feet long, 52 feet wide with a 14 foot draft.  Top speed is 15 knots.  The ship can accommodate up to 132 passengers, this trip we have 49.  The crew numbers 120, so with only 49 passengers, we are waited on hand and foot.  This cruise is an all inclusive expedition cruise.  All food and beverages – even the wine and champagne are included in the cost of the cruise.  About the only extras are internet access, telephone calls (I won’t make many at $9.50 a minute), the spa and beauty salon and laundry.

Today, Tuesday we are at sea, headed for Port Antonio, Jamaica.  We have stayed busy with the mandatory zodiac briefing, snorkel briefing, new comers welcome party and this afternoon a lecture about birding in the Caribbean (only Paul is at that).  Tonight is one of our few dress up occasions, but it is more golf club dress up, men slacks and a jacket, tie optional, as the captain hosts a welcome cocktail party.  While seating is open, tonight we are invited to sit at the Captain’s table.  I expect over the course of the cruise, all will have an opportunity to join him for dinner.

The passengers are from all around the world, US, Canada, Germany, Sweden, Denmark, and Great Britain.  It makes for a lively and interesting conversation during meals.

I will upload photos over the next few days, so please check back.

Time for another adventure

After leaving you all wondering if we ever made it home – we did.  Spring turned into summer, life was busy on the river and with a few camping trips thrown in, now it is fall.

We celebrated our 40th wedding anniversary on the 5th of September.  With a houseful of friends, good food and drink, it was an evening to remember.  Much less nerve wracking.

Next week we leave on another adventure – this time a cruise around the Caribbean and through the Panama Canal.  As internet access allows, I will post to the blog.

 

 

 

Back to the Birding Part of This Trip

Grey Silky Flycatcher

Barred Antshrike

Turquoise Browed Motmot

Purple Crowned Fairy

Northern Potoo

Red Lored Parrot

Ocellated Turkey

  As this was a birding trip, it is time I talked about the birding again.  Just a reminder, I am the non-birding spouse, so take my comments for what they are worth.  I did go birding one day. As with most folks that makes me an expert.  On my birding excursion, I was given a seminar in bird lists.  Many of you may have heard of birders maintaining a life list.  That is a list of every bird species they have ever seen.  Paul does not maintain an official life list – he marks X’s by pictures of the birds in his bird guides.  So to find out what he has seen you must look through his book for North America, Europe, Nepal, Ecuador, Costa Rica, etc., etc.  What I didn’t know is a true list birder maintains multiple lists.  You must have a list by country.  Okay, that is easy.  How about a list by state?  I suppose you could even keep a list by county.  Then there is the big year when a committed bird, maybe the better phrasing is serious, spends a year birding to see how many species he/she can see in a year.  That can be expensive if you dash off to this place and that.  I think birders have missed a few opportunities for lists.  They should have a list for the birds seen by their dog – Brutus saw several interesting species on this trip.  Then there is the opportunity for lists by day.  So far I only have a Thursday list.  How about morning, afternoon and evening lists?  Lists for birding with spouse, with friends, when on birding trips, the options are endless.  You could spend so much time setting up and maintaining your lists you wouldn’t have time to bird.  Now that is a goal I would endorse.

Hope you enjoyed the bird photos, there are hundreds more! 

 

 

 

 

Fieldmarks – Final Issue

FIELD MARKS and other birding nonsense – Final Edition, March, 2009

 

Bumper Stickers We Would Like to See

After a lively discussion of how difficult it is to get a meaningful answer out of many Belizeans, the conclusion was “Ask a Mennonite for a straight answer”  All agreed this could be a bumper sticker to warn unsuspecting tourists of the problem getting good information in Belize.  Bob is planning on setting up his bumper sticker concession in Corozal.

Topes – The Village Status Symbol

Friday, March 6, Bob Bobbitt gave an excellent lecture on the tope. He explained that not all topes are created equal, as the type of tope in front of your home indicates your status in the community.  Of course no tope indicates you have little standing and a rope is still close to the bottom for status.  A gravel tope is a bit better.  If you have an asphalt tope in front of your home, it is all about size, small ranks just above gravel.  A concrete tope puts you fairly high up the status ladder.  Add vibrdores and you are clearly near the top.  Those with the most status in the village are blessed with a pedestrian ramp.  Those who have fallen out of favor are condemned to digging a dip across their stretch of road.

Inquiring Minds Want to Know…

We have all heard things that go bump in the night.  Now we know it is Larry, thumping our tires.

Brutus Fools Birder

At La Milpa, Brutus took advantage of the screened porch behind his room to play a practical joke on Heather Bobbitt.  He grabbed his squeaky frog and hid by the door to Mrs. Bobbitt’s room, where he proceeded to make the frog squeak repeatedly.  Mrs. Bobbitt came running onto the porch seeking the bird calling so close to her room.  Brutus chuckled a bit as he walked away with his frog.

 

Mighty Maxine Meets Match

Tom Choate tells us, when he was in the lead car heading out of La Milpa in search of birds, they found a huge male Oscellated Turkey at the edge of the track.  Gordon stopped and all looked, expecting the bird to disappear soon.  Instead, as the car approached, it moved to the middle of the road.  Soon it was out of sight, hidden by the hood of the car.  Maxine left the car to see if it was out of the way so we could be on ours.  When she looked around the front of the car, the turkey turned, puffed up to make himself look larger, refusing to move.  Although this big tom was waist high to Maxine, she gave the turkey a hard push into the ditch.  By the time she was back in the car, the turkey was back in the middle of the road, ready to do battle with the rumbling machine invading its territory.  With no thought for self- preservation, Mighty Maxine left the car to show the turkey who was boss.  She chased it into the ditch, well behind the car.  In the mirror they saw it return to the road in time to chase the 3^rd vehicle off its turf.

“If you’re crazy, there’s two things you can do to make yourself feel better:  One is to get yourself cured.  The other is to make everyone you have to deal with crazy.”

Alan Dean Foster

This is the reason every birder tries to teach everyone he knows to bird… or at least suggests that they should try it.

 

Return to Teotitland

Patchy golden clouds puff out over the distant, mysterious peaks.  Most of the mountains hide from view, elusive, as if shunning the first light of day.

Wisps torn from the shadowed gray clouds are elevated by the winds, toward the high points, where they flash yellow and vaporize into the dark sky.

The whole scene of dark green mountain forest seems cold and forbidding, yet here and there flashing a golden smile, tempting and inviting a morning exploration.

As we draw nearer, some of the somber, desert-like lower hills begin to catch first light and reveal a great variety of shapes and colors.  Tall cigar-shaped cacti and square-trunked candelabras thrust their multiple fingers into the light, their dark green haloed by illuminated thorns.  Rounded shoulders of pale prickly pears are donning mantles of tan and buff, through which the dark knobs of buds appear

Like buttons.   Perhaps a secret army of hobbits is trying on their uniforms.

Thin feathery fronds of Acacias and thorny mesquite begin to resemble glowing lace as the golden sun hits them and is scattered by wind-moved leaves.  Among some are long pods of dark red, dangling, slowly waving as if the tree itself was moving little by little to warm stiff cold limbs. 

Everything in the cold and shadowed foreground is still, hushed and expectant, awaiting renewal.  But from the distant golden hill many bird voices are raised in joyous twittering and song. A binocular view reveals many puffed up breasts, lined up atop the cactus, catching the glorious golden warmth.

Now let the birding begin!      

                                         Tom Choate   4 Feb. 09

 

While You Were Out Birding, Brutus Was Sending Email

Dear Mom,
Life has been quite an adventure since I left Sandpoint.  These folks like to go places all the time.  Sometimes it is just a few hours out in their boat.  Other times, they pack up most everything they own and take off in this little house they drag behind the truck. Since the end of December they have wandered around all kinds of strange places.  This trip, they are traveling with a bunch of people who have little houses too. Nobody has another dog, so I don’t have anyone to play with.  That is okay, because at happy hour I get treats from lots of people and don’t have to share. Pat and Paul take good care of me.  They give me baths, lots to eat, buy me toys and let me sit in Pat’s lap on travel days.  Being an only dog is a good life.  I am still waiting for Pat to knit me a sweater.  So far, I only have a rain coat and lifejacket. This fall they are talking about going to Idaho for the jazz festival in Sun Valley.  If I can talk them into a side trip to Sandpoint, will you be around?  It would be good to see you.
Love, Brutus

Dear Brutus,
Sounds like the life of Riley, a Mother always wants better for her kids. Sounds like you got it.  If I can set it up for you to visit in October, can you sneak me into the little house you ride around the country in? I’d love to ride in a boat; all I get to ride in these days is the car or the truck. I do get to go to the bank once in a while where we get a cookie. Life here is tough. When we went out for our morning walk this morning it was 2°. There’s still snow all over the ground. I’m not too big a fan but your sister, Millie, goes crazy running through the snow. We did have some special fun this winter. We had a big old moose out in the back yard. We’d bark at her like crazy, but it’s hard to get a rise out of moose, especially when you’re as small as we are. She pretty much ignored us, but we didn’t care. We just barked like crazy and had a wonderful time. As long as you promise to stow me away before you go home I think it’s OK for you to visit in early October. I talked to Mom and Dad and they think we’ll be here. But I didn’t tell them about our plan for me to escape. I would like a sweater.  Tell your step Mom I’m a size 4. Be sure she knows that’s in dog size.
Love,
Your Mom

 

Publisher, Editor and Chief S.O.B. Patricia Buescher Proof reader and Bird Identification – Paul Buescher Photos – Bert Frenz, Paul Buescher Contributors – Jane Trease, Tom Choate, Bob Bobbitt, Brutus

 

 

 

 

And the Winner Is…

For the best CB call, Bob Bobbitt

“I think topes are status symbols.”

Runner up, Ken Trease

“Have you notice the Magno bull signs are anatomically correct?”

 

Thank You

The participants of Tour J150965 thank Bert and Shari Frenz and Larry and Marlene Sazama for making our adventure in Mexico and Belize a wonderful trip.  There were times we didn’t believe we signed up for where you were taking us, but in the end we all will go home with wonderful memories and great additions to our bird lists (even the sobs.)

 

Farewell, From Your Non-Birding Editor

We are busy planning a trip to the  London Zoo to continue our search for the rare Mexican and Belizean Penguins.  It has been a pleasure to entertain you.  Happy birding.

 

 

A Birding Quiz (SOB’s do not have to answer)

Part I

Ten bird puns for bird groups (not species)

Example:  Collects unwanted things    Answer:  Junk-o

1.      Needed on old men’s’ heads:                                                                                                 

2.      Fabric of early flags:                                                                                                               

3.      Similar to turkey burger:                                                                                                         

4.      Smokes too much:                                                                                                                  

5.      Baseball hero:                                                                                                                         

6.      Found in most roads:                                                                                                              

7.      Known for beating up opponents:                                                                                          

8.      Over seasoned potato:                                                                                                            

9.      Yeast infection:                                                                                                                                  

10.  This bird feeds in sewage:                                                                                                      

 

 

Part II

Specific bird puns – the clues lead to the name of a specific bird. 

Example:  Thanksgiving treat   Answer:  Ovenbird

 

11.  This bird eats buildings:                                                                                                                      

12.  The NRA’s favorite bird:                                                                                                        

13.  Common bird always seen by birdwatchers:                                                                           

14.  This is a spicy colored bird:                                                                                                    

15.  A train between Fredericksburg and Mount Vernon:                                                              

16.  Too early to be good to eat:                                                                                                                

17.  Relatives with bad feet:                                                                                                                      

18.  Looking for the donkey:                                                                                                                     

19.  Takes extra profit:                                                                                                                   `

20.  Useful in Alaskan winters:                                                                                                      

21.  Sneaky character, now in jail:                                                                                                 

22.  Old William has osteoporosis:                                                                                                

23.  Irish redhead attends wake:                                                                                                    

24.  Cost of buying shovels:                                                                                                                      

25.  Fun in California grasslands:                                                                                                  

26.  After diarrhea from excess fruit:                                                                                                        

27.  Flip the buns of your burger:                                                                                                  

28.  Rented pest control:                                                                                                                

29.  Important Swedish catholic:                                                                                                    

Part III

Mammal puns for bonus points (species)

 

30.  Polka dot  panties:                                                                                                                  

31.  Comes to your house when you move:                                                                                               

32.  Israeli with sexual fantasies:                                                                                                   

33.  Lit in certain church ceremonies:                                                                                            

 

For answers, contact the pun master, Tom Choate: mtngoatc@yahoo.com

Following are recipes omitted from the Caravan “Cook Book”

All are favorite on the road recipes from Pat and Paul Buescher’s kitchen

 

Crunchy Turkey Hot Dish    

10 ¼ ounce can condensed cream of mushroom soup

¼ cup water

2 cups cooked cubed turkey or chicken

½ cup coarsely chopped cashews

1 tablespoon chopped green pepper

2 stalks celery, chopped

1 small onion chopped

2 cups chow mein noodles

 

Heat oven to 375 degrees.  In 1 ½ quart casserole, combine soup and water.  Add turkey, cashews, green pepper, celery, onion and 1 cup chow mein noodles, mix well.  Top with remaining 1 cup noodles.  Bake uncovered at 375 degrees for 45 minutes or until bubbly.

 

Halibut Steaks and Yogurt Sauce

1 pound halibut steak (1/2 inch thick)

Salt and pepper

1 small onion, peeled and sliced in rings

2 tablespoons butter

1 tablespoon lemon juice

¼ to ½ cup plain yogurt

¼ to ½ cup grated cheddar cheese

 

Heat oven to 350 degrees.  Sprinkle halibut steaks with salt and pepper.  Place fish in baking dish sprayed with non-stick cooking spray.  Arrange onion rings over halibut.  In a saucepan melt butter.  Add lemon juice and yogurt.  Blend.  Pour sauce over halibut in baking dish.  Sprinkle cheese over fish and bake at 350 degrees for 35 minutes or until done.

 

Vegetarian Tortilla Pie

1 ½ cups salsa, fresh or canned

1 ½ cups whole-kernel corn, thaw if frozen

1 can (about 15 ounces) black beans, rinsed and drained

½ cup fresh cilantro (if desired)

4- 10” diameter low-fat flour tortillas

1½ cups shredded reduced-fat Monterey Jack cheese (about 6 ounces)

 

 

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.  Spray a cookie sheet with nonstick cooking spray.

In a medium bowl, mix salsa, corn, black beans and cilantro.  Place one tortilla on cookie sheet.  Spread of 1/3 salsa/corn/bean mixture and top with 1/3 of cheese.  Repeat layering two more times, ending with last tortilla.  Lightly spray top tortilla with nonstick cooking spray.  Cover loosely with foil.  Bake pie 35 to 45 minutes, until cheese melts and filling is hot.

 

The Run for the Border

Thankfully, Villahermosa was a one night stand. El Gordo and San Pancho’s campground was just a weedy grass parking lot in front of the event center where families came to swim and hang out. You can rent the place for your next event, but don’t be surprised if all your guests have burrs on their pants legs.
The trip north continued with a stop near Catemaco, Mexico. We were all looking forward to our lake front campground with swimming pool. Yes, the property was lake front and there was a swimming pool, however, our campsites, with water and electricity were all of us crammed into a parking lot, complete with enough slope that leveling a rig was almost impossible. And with doors to rigs opening on the downhill side, some of the short people in taller rigs needed ladders to get out. Water was a long hose and electricity was an extension cord to a 15 amp circuit. With all of us plugged in, no one dared vacuum or use a blow dryer for fear the circuit would blow. I will admit the pool was wonderful and we all enjoyed the crocodile swimming back and forth in front of the hotel.
After a couple of nights we continued north to a campground near Vera Cruz. This was the closest to a real campground we had seen outside of Chetumal. The property was beach front, each site having water, electricity and an ocean view. The sites were sandy and nowhere near level. But what the hey, at this point in the trip we are getting pretty good with the leveling blocks. Most times I can figure out how high we need to go to get level on the first try. The population of Vera Cruz and surrounding suburbs is about the same as Portland, so we enjoyed restocking at Wal-Mart, Mega and Soriana. Wal-Mart had the best bread since we left home.
Two nights at the beach and we are heading north again, with a one night stop at Trailer Park de Alba in Costa Esmeralda, a 20 km stretch of beach on the Gulf with all the hotels and campgrounds you could ask for. Our campground was beach front, but no view. A swimming pool too dirty to swim in. Wifi that did not work. And electricity that was so weak, we were afraid to plug in. To our surprise, a Canadian couple we camped next to in San Cristobal and camped near at Chetumal, were in the spot next to us at Trailerpark de Alba. We chatted about our respective travels and moaned and groaned about the bad roads and inadequate campgrounds. The way things are going, I wouldn’t be surprised if they pulled in next to us while we are still in Texas.
Our last night in Mexico was a parking lot behind a hotel near Tampico, the busiest port in Mexico. No water, electricity, sewer or other amenities. There was a pool, but we arrived too late to use it. Knowing the next morning we were headed for the border made us willing to put up with anyplace that got us off the road for the night.
We were up early for the last day in our run for the border. Much to our surprise, the roads were terrific. We were beginning to think it was just our imaginations that roads this good existed. While only two lane much of the time, they were good enough we could drive 60 to 65 miles an hour. Best of all, not a tope in sight for miles and miles – a dream come true.
We reached the Mexican part of our exodus about 1:30. After 5,168 miles we still had a couple of hours to wait before we were officially home. It took almost an hour for everyone to pass by the little hut to have the hologram removed from the windshield and returned to the Mexican government. What an exercise, like I would leave my truck in Mexico. By the time the hologram was removed half of Mexico and all the tourists wanting back into Texas were on the International Bridge waiting to pass through US Customs and Immigration. We were well entertained on the bridge with vendors selling water, pop, pictures to decorate our rigs or home, gifts for the kids, accessories for the truck. I could have done my Christmas shopping while we waited. After about an hour, moving an inch at a time, it was our turn to be welcomed back into the USA. They were so excited to see us that we were give a special welcome. The officer walked ahead of the truck and led us over to a large covered area. Paul backed the truck and trailer in. We all got out of the truck and waited in a little shelter that looked like a bus stop. Next everyone left, kind of like at the dentist’s office, and the x-ray machine started up, scanning our trailer and truck for contraband. After that, the officer wanted a tour of the trailer. He took out his CSI flashlight and looked in the refrigerator, freezer and the pantry, then asked me questions: “Where are the eggs?” After his tour, we were free to enter Texas proper and resume the life we left behind 65 days ago.
It was so exciting to pull into a US campground – Paul plugged the trailer in without a second thought. No need to check the electricity to make sure the polarity was correct, there is enough to run the systems and it isn’t 220.

My Texas Grocery List

Now that we are less than a week away from crossing the border, while Paul is out birding, I am working on my Texas grocery list.  Since we can’t bring anything fresh across the border, stopping at the grocery store is a high priority when we get back to Texas.

While we aren’t starving in Mexico, there are some things you can’t buy – like dill pickles or cheddar cheese or crunchy peanut butter.  Some fresh salsa would be nice – everyone in Mexico must make their own.  A good loaf of sour dough would really hit the spot, as would multi-grain bread for making sandwiches.  Wonder bread and its Mexican counterpart – Bimbo, are the choice.   We both lost our desire for soft, mushy bread years ago, and prefer the artisan varieties available at home. Baquettes are like Wonder Bread with a crust.  We thought we had found a loaf of olive bread at the big grocery store in Chetumal, but it turned out to be raisin, not bad, but not what we were expecting.

Miracle Whip isn’t an option in Mexico, but you can find it in Belize.  Even the reduced fat kind was available.  Paul was pleased with the jalapeno mayonnaise, so we will bring a few bottles of that home with us.  We were surprised to find a good selection of mustard, catsup, barbecue sauce and a few other condiments. 

Fresh produce is a hit or miss thing.  One day there are be tangerines, pallets of grapes, lots of bananas.  The next day, grapes are gone, as are the tangerines and the bananas are ready for banana bread.  All of which makes me appreciate the distribution system at home.  Apples were all from Washington state – mostly Delicious, some Galas and Granny Smith.

We were warned that some things we consider staples of life might not be available or could be very expensive, so in the months before we left Portland, I stockpiled, made lists, and agonized over what and how much to pack.  Because we don’t carry a coffee grinder, I hoarded bags of Peets, Tulleys and Starbucks ground coffee and we still have some.  I didn’t do as well on toilet paper.  When we camp at home, we use the facilities at the campgrounds as much as we use the facilities in the trailer.  On this trip I preferred my own ladies room, so the toilet paper supply was woefully inadequate.  Unlike the days when my parents wintered in Cabo, now toilet paper is of a better quality and the price is comparable to the stores at home.  The dog food supply is holding out, although it turned out a good selection dog food was in most every store.

Now our biggest issue with groceries is having enough to cook a decent meal without leaving much in the fridge that will be confiscated at the border.  It is kind of like getting the chips and dip to come out even, a real balancing act.

 

 

 

The Fun Never Stops

 

  

So we have four wonderful days in Chetumal.  The cupboards and fridge are full of food.  We spent hours at the swimming pool.  The days were lazy and refreshing.  But as they say, all good things must come to an end.  On the 11^th, we were up before dawn to drive the 379 miles to Villahermosa.  Our run for the border has begun.

For most of the day, I was feeling pretty good about the drive.  The road was so much better than Belize that I could read and knit while Paul drove.  There wasn’t a lot to see, but after the first couple of hours and many, many topes, we were between towns and could make some progress.  Part of the road was recently paved, so it was smooth sailing for kilometer after kilometer.

 

Time for Paul and Brutus to bond

 

Again, all good things must come to an end.  At our afternoon fuel break, Paul made the mistake of turning his back on the attendant and they ripped us off for 100 pesos – about $6.50.  What happened is they pretended to misunderstand his request for 500 pesos of fuel.  When his back was turned, the attendant punched 100 pesos into the pump (the amount where the pump would turn off).  When Paul turned back to face the attendant, the nozzle was in the tank, the attendant pulled it out and shook it as if he had pumped fuel.  Paul says, no, I want 500 pesos.  The attendant punched in 400, Paul wasn’t watching closely and we received 400 pesos worth of diesel.  When the pump stopped at 400, Paul questioned the attendant, who explained he had pumped 100 pesos, then 400.  It wasn’t until after we left, that Paul realized the liters were at zero when the attendant quickly cleared the 100 pesos off the pump.  Live and learn. 

The road was a four lane divided highway, the last few miles into Villahermosa.  Once we hit town, there were frontage roads, so our trip through the center of things went smoothly, until we hit on h…. of a bump on the approach to an overpass.  When we reached the campground, everything from the cabinets above the dinette was spread from one end of the trailer to the other.  Add to the chaos the fact it is 97 degrees in the trailer and the electrical service is not adequate to run the air conditioning.    To say I was in a foul mood is the understatement of the year.  And Paul, who was already feeling bad about the fuel stop, felt even worse when he looked into the trailer.

An hour later, we have rearranged things again.  Anything heavy has been moved from the upper cabinets to floor level.  Now the upper cabinets are full of soft things, like sheets and towels and refrigerator dishes.  Add finding a way to keep the cabinets from coming open to our hit list for when we stop at an Airstream service center.

The best campsite of the whole trip

Hanging out by the pool

Time to Leave Belize

La Milpa, Rio Bravo Conservation Area, Belize

The drive to Orange Walk was a relatively easy 131 miles, the high point was when one of our traveling companions spotted a laughing falcon – look that one up in your Sibley’s.  The campground, using the term loosely was the most disappointing of the trip.  Another field, not mowed and full of burrs and other things that stick to clothes and dog, electrical service not ready, the restrooms usable only by the desperate – a depressing end to the day for a group of folks feeling a bit road weary after 36 days of 3^rd world travel.

 

 

The Belize of the travel brochures is not the Belize you see when traveling with a trailer.  There are beautiful resorts, with wonderful accommodations, considerate staff, good food and facilities to make your stay memorable.  When you drive Belize, purchase groceries locally, and take care of the other day to day needs on your own, you experience the Belize of Belizeans.  Fresh produce is available at road side stands and open air markets.  There is little fresh fruit – some days the bananas are only fit for banana bread, the oranges were mostly green, apples were soft little things imported from Washington.  There were more vegetables – mostly tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage.  In the grocery store all the meat is frozen – usually one chest freezer contains the bulk of the frozen food selection.  Replacing anything that breaks is at best a challenge.  Our coffee thermos succumbed to the bad roads.  In Dangriga, we searched shop after shop looking for a replacement.  There is no rhyme or reason to the merchandise available in any store – one may carry shoes, boom boxes, cosmetics.  The next may have a great assortment of plastic ware, shoes, t-shirts and cleaning supplies.  We did find a replacement pot, at a small Chinese market.  Given the thick layer of dust on the box, not a high turnover item for them.

Not all was grim, as the morning of March 3^rd, we left our rigs behind and drove up to La Milpa Field Station located in the Rio Bravo Conservation Area.  This 260,000 acre landholding became available when Barry Bowen, the Belize beer king, wanted to purchase the area around the Chan Chich ruins to establish an upscale eco-tourism lodge, along with other enterprises.  The part of the holding that became the conservation area, was more than Mr. Bowen wanted for himself, so a deal was struck and the Massachusetts Audubon Society put up the funds to purchase the unwanted portion.   The land is now protected and access limited.  The field station is available to researchers and to nature lovers.  Bird watching is a primary activity here.  As it is about 45 miles on bad road from Orange Walk to La Milpa, most folks make arrangements to spend a night or two.  We stayed three and enjoyed each day, seeing Keel Billed Toucans, Mottled Owl, Slaty-Tailed Trogon, Black Headed Trogon, several kinds of hummingbirds, Oscellated Turkey, Great Curassow, Crested Guan, and Paul’s favorite, Red-Legged Honey Creeper to name a very few.   Day time temperatures were about 80 degrees, so the outside dining room was the perfect place for meals and to hang out and watch birds.

We were reminded immediately upon our return to Orange Walk how disgusting our campground is.  The electricity failed while we were gone.  Paul and I are having trouble with the trailer batteries holding a charge, and sure enough, the batteries were dead, which meant the fridge (even with propane you need a little power to keep the circuit board running) was off, and the cheese, leftovers, etc. headed for the garbage can that hadn’t been emptied during our absence.  We didn’t have much trouble deciding that nothing we were scheduled to do during the next three days in Belize was worth putting up with our current campsite, so Saturday morning we packed up, wished everyone a pleasant day and said we would see them when they arrived in Chetumal.  With only a short 50 mile drive and a border crossing the lovely seaside campground there was calling our names.

Crossing the border from Belize back into Mexico was a breeze compared to what we endured heading south.  With our paperwork in hand, we checked the truck and trailer out of Belize – they have this book where they manually enter the info for each vehicle.  I don’t know what they do if you leave by another route.  After paying our exit fee, across the bridge into Mexico – agricultural inspection (again the meat and other forbidden items were carefully hidden), a military inspection, and fumigation of the tires and we were back in Mexico.  I never thought Mexico would look so good.  We were able to get the same great campsite we had before, out on the point, overlooking the water.  The rest of the caravan will arrive on Tuesday.  In the meantime we will rest, do a bit of sightseeing, take care of some housekeeping chores and relax until we begin our journey north.

An aside on our efforts to smuggle meat and vegetable – Mexico and Belize forbid travelers from bringing these items across the border for economic reasons, protecting local agriculture from pests etc. is not the issue.  Belize wants all travelers to purchase whatever they need, whether it is soda pop or hamburger, in Belize.  Mexico retaliates by having similar restrictions on fresh food headed north.  I was unwilling to give up my beautiful pork chops because of political squabbling.  When we cross the border into the US, my fridge, trailer and truck will be empty of forbidden items.  The US inspections are much more rigorous and the penalty is more than just losing a few pieces of fruit.

The Last of Belize

The drive to Orange Walk was a relatively easy 131 miles, the high point was when one of our traveling companions spotted a laughing falcon – look that one up in your Sibley’s. The campground, using the term loosely was the most disappointing of the trip. Another field, not mowed and full of burrs and other things that stick to clothes and dog, electrical service not ready, the restrooms usable only by the desperate – a depressing end to the day for a group of folks feeling a bit road weary after 36 days of 3rd world travel.
The Belize of the travel brochures is not the Belize you see when traveling with a trailer. There are beautiful resorts, with wonderful accommodations, considerate staff, good food and facilities to make your stay memorable. When you drive Belize, purchase groceries locally, and take care of the other day to day needs on your own, you experience the Belize of Belizeans. Fresh produce is available at road side stands and open air markets. There is little fresh fruit – some days the bananas are only fit for banana bread, the oranges were mostly green, apples were soft little things imported from Washington. There were more vegetables – mostly tomatoes, cucumbers and cabbage. In the grocery store all the meat is frozen – usually one chest freezer contains the bulk of the frozen food selection. Replacing anything that breaks is at best a challenge. Our coffee thermos succumbed to the bad roads. In Dangriga, we searched shop after shop looking for a replacement. There is no rhyme or reason to the merchandise available in any store – one may carry shoes, boom boxes, cosmetics. The next may have a great assortment of plastic ware, shoes, t-shirts and cleaning supplies. We did find a replacement pot, at a small Chinese market. Given the thick layer of dust on the box, not a high turnover item for them.
Not all was grim, as the morning of March 3rd, we left our rigs behind and drove up to La Milpa Field Station located in the Rio Bravo Conservation Area. This 260,000 acre landholding became available when Barry Bowen, the Belize beer king, wanted to purchase the area around the Chan Chich ruins to establish an upscale eco-tourism lodge, along with other enterprises. The part of the holding that became the conservation area, was more than Mr. Bowen wanted for himself, so a deal was struck and the Massachusetts Audubon Society put up the funds to purchase the unwanted portion. The land is now protected and access limited. The field station is available to researchers and to nature lovers. Bird watching is a primary activity here. As it is about 45 miles on bad road from Orange Walk to La Milpa, most folks make arrangements to spend a night or two. We stayed three and enjoyed each day, seeing Keel Billed Toucans, Mottled Owl, Slaty-Tailed Trogon, Black Headed Trogon, several kinds of hummingbirds, Oscellated Turkey, Great Curassow, Crested Guan, and Paul’s favorite, Red-Legged Honey Creeper to name a very few. Day time temperatures were about 80 degrees, so the outside dining room was the perfect place for meals and to hang out and watch birds.
We were reminded immediately upon our return to Orange Walk how disgusting our campground is. The electricity failed while we were gone. Paul and I are having trouble with the trailer batteries holding a charge, and sure enough, the batteries were dead, which meant the fridge (even with propane you need a little power to keep the circuit board running) was off, and the cheese, leftovers, etc. headed for the garbage can that hadn’t been emptied during our absence. We didn’t have much trouble deciding that nothing we were scheduled to do during the next three days in Belize was worth putting up with our current campsite, so Saturday morning we packed up, wished everyone a pleasant day and said we would see them when they arrived in Chetumal. With only a short 50 mile drive and a border crossing the lovely seaside campground there was calling our names.
Crossing the border from Belize back into Mexico was a breeze compared to what we endured heading south. With our paperwork in hand, we checked the truck and trailer out of Belize – they have this book where they manually enter the info for each vehicle. I don’t know what they do if you leave by another route. After paying our exit fee, across the bridge into Mexico – agricultural inspection (again the meat and other forbidden items were carefully hidden), a military inspection, and fumigation of the tires and we were back in Mexico. I never thought Mexico would look so good. We were able to get the same great campsite we had before, out on the point, overlooking the water. The rest of the caravan will arrive on Tuesday. In the meantime we will rest, do a bit of sightseeing, take care of some housekeeping chores and relax until we begin our journey north.
An aside on our efforts to smuggle meat and vegetable – Mexico and Belize forbid travelers from bringing these items across the border for economic reasons, protecting local agriculture from pests etc. is not the issue. Belize wants all travelers to purchase whatever they need, whether it is soda pop or hamburger, in Belize. Mexico retaliates by having similar restrictions on fresh food headed north. I was unwilling to give up my beautiful pork chops because of political squabbling. When we cross the border into the US, my fridge, trailer and truck will be empty of forbidden items. The US inspections are much more rigorous and the penalty is more than just losing a few pieces of fruit.